Husqvarna Chainsaw Deals UK: 120 Mark II Price, Pro Chainsaw Buying Tips, and Lost-Key Solutions

Buy the saw for the work you do every week, not the one you hope a discount will make sensible. If you run a professional crew and your main saw is a Husqvarna 120 Mark II, it isn't a pro chainsaw no matter how good the price looks. I've spent eight years managing equipment and emergency replacements for a grounds-care company in the UK, and almost every bad buy I've seen happened because someone was rushing to save a small amount of money.

Below I'll walk through the questions that come up most when we buy Husqvarna equipment under pressure: what the 120 Mark II chainsaw price UK actually looks like, which Husqvarna chainsaw deals are real, how to start a Husqvarna lawn mower without wasting a morning, and what to do when a key goes missing on a day when time matters.

120 Mark II chainsaw price UK: what should you actually pay?

If you search for a 120 Mark II chainsaw price UK figure, you'll get a range, not a single number. Based on dealer listings and package prices we checked between late 2025 and spring 2026, the typical range is roughly £180 to £230 including VAT. Promotional prices sometimes dip below that, while kits with a carry case and spare chain usually sit at the top end. Treat those numbers as a planning range, not a fixed quote.

Before you compare prices, check the bar length. A 120 Mark II with a 35 cm bar and one with a 40 cm bar are not the same product, even if they appear side by side on the same dealer site. If a deal looks unusually cheap, ask what is actually in the box. That sounds basic, but it's the first thing people miss when they are in a hurry.

Which Husqvarna chainsaw deals are genuinely worth it?

Not all Husqvarna chainsaw deals are equal. The ones I pay attention to are real stock clearances. When a new generation arrives, dealers need to move older models, and the older saws are often identical to the ones that were full price a few weeks earlier. We bought two 545 Mark II saws that way a few years ago. They were exactly what we needed, and parts are still easy to get.

Here's something vendors won't tell you: the biggest online discount can come with hidden time costs. Some listings come from sellers outside your country, which can create warranty and parts problems when something goes wrong. For us, a local Husqvarna dealer who stocks spares and can do a same-day repair matters more than an extra 10% discount. That's not an anti-online-shopping point. It's a time-risk point.

In March 2024, a tree-care client had a saw stolen from a van the night before a contract started. The cheapest online option would have saved about £90, but it would have taken four days to arrive. A local dealer had the right pro saw in stock, and the crew started on time. The discount was not worth the uncertainty.

What makes a pro chainsaw actually different?

This is where I push back on the phrase pro chainsaw. In Husqvarna's range, the professional models are usually the XP series, like the 550 XP Mark II, the 562 XP Mark II, and larger models, plus the 545 Mark II if you want a more affordable entry point into pro work. These saws are built for long daily use: stronger cases, lower vibration, better air filtration, easier access to the air filter and clutch, and better parts availability through dealers.

The 120 Mark II is a light-duty saw. It's good for fencing work, occasional firewood, or having a spare on the truck. But if it's your main income tool and it runs for hours every day, it will let you down eventually.

A few years ago, we tried to save money by putting a light saw on a two-week tree job. It simply wasn't fast enough for the work. By the third day, the crew had lost about half a day of output. The money we saved on the purchase was less than the value of the lost production. Now we match the saw to the workload, not to the deal.

If you only need a saw for weekend projects, ignore most of my pro-saw advice. The 120 Mark II is a sensible buy for light work. Just don't convince yourself it's a professional machine because a product description says the word pro.

How to start a Husqvarna lawn mower fast

Most of the time, learning how to start a Husqvarna lawn mower properly takes less than two minutes. Most won't-start calls are actually won't-start-quickly calls. The engine is usually fine. The operator missed one simple step, or pulled a warm engine five times with the choke closed and flooded it.

For a petrol walk-behind Husqvarna mower, the process is basically this:

1. Put the mower on flat ground and check the oil and fuel first, not after ten pulls.
2. If the spark plug cap is loose or disconnected, push it back on firmly.
3. Hold the blade brake lever, sometimes called the operator presence control, against the handle. The mower won't start unless that control is held.
4. For a cold engine, close the choke. For a warm engine, leave it open.
5. Pull the starter rope slowly until you feel resistance, then give it one firm pull.
6. Once the engine catches, open the choke and let it settle before you start cutting.

For a ride-on Husqvarna lawn mower, the safety checks matter just as much:

1. Sit in the seat, because there is usually a safety switch underneath it.
2. Make sure the blade or PTO switch is off.
3. Press the brake pedal and engage the parking brake.
4. Set the choke if the engine is cold.
5. Turn the key and release it once the engine starts.

On any Husqvarna mower with electric start, check the battery before you do anything else. A long winter can leave a battery too weak to spin the engine, and no amount of choking will fix that.

How to open a door lock if key is lost (and deal with other lost keys)

Lost keys are a time problem, not a hardware problem. That applies to a ride-on mower ignition key, a site cabin door, or a padlock on a storage container. The question shouldn't just be how do I get in, but what is the fastest way to get back to work without breaking something expensive.

If the lost key is for a Husqvarna ride-on mower, start with your Husqvarna dealer. The ignition cylinder usually has a key code, and a dealer can often supply a replacement or cut one from that code. If you need the mower the same day, a locksmith might also help, but the dealer route is usually simpler for an ignition switch. After it's sorted, buy a spare key and store it somewhere sensible. A spare key costs far less than a locksmith callout or a missed morning of mowing.

For a physical door lock, the answer depends on the lock type. If it's a basic spring-latch lock on an internal door, you can sometimes slide a stiff plastic card into the gap beside the striker plate, angle it toward the latch, and push the latch out of the striker. That only works on simple latches, and it won't work on a deadbolt or multipoint lock.

For an exterior door or a commercial-grade lock, don't force it. Call a locksmith. You might pay £70 to £150 for the callout, but that's often the cheapest option when time matters. Last summer, we lost the only key to a site cabin door before an important client meeting. A locksmith had us in within about twenty minutes. The callout cost £70, and it saved the whole day.

The honest boundary of this advice

This comes from a UK grounds-care operation running a mix of Husqvarna chainsaws, walk-behind mowers, and ride-on mowers. If you're a homeowner with one lawn and one light saw, some of my logic about dealer stock and same-day support won't matter as much. Buy according to your actual workload, and if you have time to wait, a tighter deal can be fine.

Prices mentioned here are based on public dealer listings and packages we saw around early 2026, so they will move. Always verify current prices and availability with a local Husqvarna dealer before you buy. Our buying rule hasn't changed in eight years: when the job has a deadline, pay for certainty, not for a promise that might arrive later.